Friday, January 15, 2010

Turkey & Dressing

Time is flying here in Turkey, and there's little of it for blogging, so I'm posting what I can on the fly. Going back to my whirlwind 30-hour visit in Ankara, after Ayhan and his brother Altan picked me up at the airport, we headed to the cemetery to visit their father's grave. I had the pleasure of meeting Suphi during my first visit to Turkey in 2002. He died in 2003... had to believe it's been as long.

Fascinating factoid about how the dead are buried here... chronologically. The graves are literally filled in order... thus, you walk down a row of markers, and see everyone that passed in March, then April, May and so on. Many of the grave sites are doubled, so that a spouse may join when their unfortunate time comes.From there, it was home, where Ayhan's mom has lived in the apartment across the hall from his brother and family for the past decade or so. They both own their units, which are identical in size, but wildly different in design and function—perhaps reflecting the generations of their residents.Buildings here are often similar in design: highrises, grouped in a community by the half-dozen or so, most with balconies, either open or closed in, and spacious, compared to many urban cities.

We visited with Ayhan's mamer and 11-year-old nephew, Ozgur, who, when I was here in November 2007, spoke no English yet. So although it's the third time we've seen each other, hilariously, it's the first time we've ever had a conversation.By this point, I was in the midst of what was to be 34 hours without sleep... and Wednesday evening was full. All for now, cool cats. I actually look as if both of my eyes are open here.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Ankara Kalesi

Saw Ankara's highest point today, at the historic ruins of the Kalesi... a 360-degree view of beautiful architecture, regal mosques, ancient ruins... and overwhelming poverty... No guardrails or fencing at the top of the castle... terrifying, in a racy, daring way. Many photos, but I've misplaced my camera USB plug... eek.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Arrived In Ankara

Wow. I've been awake for 26 hours now. Wow. Wait, was I saying something? Departed JFK for Turkey at 4:15 p.m. Tuesday, flew into the night, with the clock advancing seven hours, landing at 9:15 a.m. While everyone else on the flight slept peacefully, I, of course, did not. Sleeping is a chore in general. On a plane, forget it.

So I watched "Time Traveler's Wife" with Rachel McAdams and Eric Bana. And cried and cried. And cried. Softly. And then I tossed and turned—which isn't easy to do in an airplane seat—while the man to my right read a book all night long... with a 450-watt bulb shining into my right cornea. And as the two women one row in front of me caught up on old times... apparently, covering everything that has happened between them, all of which must be hysterically funny, for the past 20 years.

And now, here I am in Ankara. It's 5:40 p.m. here, and I have yet to sleep since I got up at 8:30 a.m. Tuesday... it's 10:40 a.m. NYC time. I am firmly convinced that not only will I not recall posting this, but I won't know what The Smoking Nun is within the hour.Above, the building where Ayhan's mamer lives, as well as his brother and sis-in-law, niece & nephew.

Airline Service? Go Global, Baby

Airline service. When’s the last time you saw those two words side by side? My flight on Turkish Airlines to Istanbul on Tuesday was a damn dream. Ironic, since a page 1 article in USA Today that I read hours before boarding, pointed to the fact that many Americans have given up on airline travel, because it has simply become… miserable.

From the moment I boarded the roomy Boeing 777 for Istanbul, there was a festive scent in the air. The bountiful team of flight attendants smiled. They were more than helpful, as passengers packed onto the plane’s nine-seats-across rows. More impressive, the staff was collectively crisp: well-groomed, fit and dressed professionally, with the men in vests and suit coats, and the women in smart pant-suits or skirts.

That was just the beginning. The first time the beverage cart came through, there were sodas, juices, wine, cocktails, water… all paid for in the fare. Then came dinner, served with metal utensils. Ready for this? Marinated shrimp with eggplant salad, a seasonal green salad, fresh, warm dinner roll, and for the entrĂ©e, a choice of grilled chicken breast with vegetables and rice, or cannelloni with ricotta and spinach. Coffee and more beverages followed.

Each seat offered an individual screen with dozens of movies, customizable music playlists, TV, news or the constantly evolving flight pattern. All free, along with headphones. Did I mention the pillows and blankets?

My seatmate complained to a flight attendant that she had a headache. She was given water and aspirin. Can you imagine? The airline figured that if a passenger was too stupid to know that he or she is allergic to a pain-reliever, the lawsuit is futile. That would never be allowed in the States. Too risky. Just like that metal flatware. Amazingly, nobody used it as a weapon.

At some point in the night, a cheese tart was delivered, along with beverage service. And then, as the sun peaked on the horizon, breakfast was served: strawberry yogurt, a selection of cheeses and olives, scrambled eggs with spinach and potatoes. More bread. Coffee, water, juices, sodas.

By the time we landed in Istanbul some nine hours in, I didn’t want to leave the plane. This felt like some 1970’s fantasy, where flying (coach, mind you) was part of the vacation adventure—before U.S. unions made airline travel in the States… well, miserable.

But wait, there’s more! My second flight, a shuttle from Istanbul to Ankara on Turkish Airlines was all of 45 minutes in the air. Hmm, wonder if I can get a soda… The next thing I know, here comes a turkey sandwich and side salad, with a brownie. USAir, Delta, United, American, Continental… you can all bite me!

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

"Star Trek" 2009

A gorgeous, goddamn thrill ride... I even moistened a bit when (spoiler) Spock met "Prime Spock." Let's hope my flight to Turkey later today is less turbulent.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Judy Garland: "A Star Is Born"

I should be ashamed of myself. In all my years, the only Judy Garland movie I have ever seen is "The Wizard of Oz" (my second fave flick of all time, next to “Auntie Mame”). Mind you, I've seen “Wizard” 5,000 times... but that doesn't make up for the fact that I’ve never ventured further into Garland’s career.

Rosalind Russell, seen every film. James Dean, I intimately know, well, all three. Joan Crawford, Meryl Streep, Liz Taylor, Jessica Lange, Sal Mineo, Brittany Murphy, Adrian Pasdar... have seen much of their work… but somehow, I missed the boat on Judy.

The version of "A Star Is Born" that I rented runs almost three hours—with footage restored and missing scenes even recreated with still photos [in 1983]—and it was a long haul… and I’m not an enormous fan of musicals in general (except for “Grease” and “Xanadu,” baby!)… but boy, what a ride.

Every once in a while, there were glimpses of "Wizard's" Dorothy in Garland’s Oscar-nominated (and Golden Globe-winning) performance as Vicki Lester. Of course, like most, I know every word, every utterance of “Oz,” and hearing the tremor in her voice, the way she weeps, certain phrasing, was so familiar… But this was definitely a grown-up Garland. Of course, who wouldn’t be bowled over by her performance of Oscar-winning song “The Man That Got Away.” Sorry, I suppose I should turn in my gay card, because I didn’t realize it was hers. Mesmerizing. And the tour-de-force emotional finale, where she argues before agreeing to attend the benefit… powerful acting.

Interesting to note that director George Cukor had little interest in James Mason for the male lead (who also got an Oscar nod). He wanted Carey Grant, who turned it down. Could have done wonders for his range and reputation. Cukor also considered Frank Sinatra; can you imagine how gorgeous that would have been? Mason was all right… but it was definitely Judy’s film. An amazing experience.

P.S. My god, is my gay flick factor being further compromised? Tonight's entertainment is the 2009 version of "Star Trek," a man film! Har, har, just kidding. You don't think I'm watching this for any reason other than dreamy Chris Pine, do you?

Bound For Turkey

Heading to the great nation of Turkey on Tuesday for the next six days. Ayhan has been there since Wednesday, visiting friends and family in his home of Ankara. I head out at 4:15 p.m., fly direct for, yikes, 10 hours, and land in Istanbul Wednesday morning (attention would-be burglars: sorry, but Kirby's godparents Patrick & Tina will be staying in Brooklyn during my absence). Then I take a shuttle flight to Istanbul, followed by two days with Ayhan in Ankara.

On Thursday at midnight, we take an overnight bus through the mountains, that will deliver us back to Istanbul for a long weekend. We're staying in a beautiful, quaint boutique hotel we discovered in November 2007, where we actually had our Thanksgiving dinner: Kybele Hotel, in the old city, near Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar.

With temps barely cracking the 30s for the past week in NYC, I can't wait to get away. Stand by for the first crop of 2010 destination picolas.

Friday, January 8, 2010

2010's First Lunacy @ Lunasa

Ah, the comfort that some things don't change... evolve, yes, but thankfully remain intact. Tonight was the year's first Lunasa gathering. Felt like home.

Unemployment: 1-In-5 Men Shit Outta Luck

As the national unemployment rate remains locked at 10% with another 85,000 jobs lost in December, the Huffington Post today offers analysis that says one in five working-age men continue to be screwed.

According to the report, "Only 80.3% of men ages 25-54 had jobs in December—the lowest since the Bureau of Labor Statistics started collecting that data in 1948—at which point the figure was 94.4%. When the recession began in December 2007, less than 13% of men in this age bracket were out of work."

Let's see. Yup, I'm 25-54. Been without a fulltime job for 10 months. I have applied for five jobs over the past seven days. Not a peep from any of 'em... hey, it's me! I'm 1 in 5! I'm a national statistic! Hark!

And yet... the White House, with not a hint of irony, continues to declare the wondrous reawakening of the economy. According to AP, "Real recoveries come in fits and starts, and November was in some sense a start and December was a little bit of a fit," Christina Romer, chair of Obama's Council of Economic Advisers, said. "We're starting to see stabilization in employment. Obviously, the next step is job growth; we're thinking we're going to see that by the spring."

That smell? Is that flowers? No, sorry. Bullshit.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Strele

Mileposts. Days that alter the course of our lives... whether or not we necessarily want to remember them for what they represent. Carlton, my best friend of 30 years, died two years ago Jan. 6. In 2009, his NYC posse gathered to mark the date. This time, the evening before, I made three phone calls, to talk to friends about his endurance. Otherwise, I think we've decided that from this point on, to honor his birth—May 30—and let this date be acknowledged, quietly, personally. And yet I know those many that he touched still feel a giant void. And always will.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

New Year's Eve Twenty-Ten

A grand ole New Year's Eve, with Birdie Francie, hubby Nick, his delightful Aunt Nancy... Ayhan, Tinatin and meese, and for a short while, kiddies Grant and Luke...Gang's all here.Birdie's birthday! Yes, bless her heart, Francie was born December 31.Tinatin, Nancy and Ayhan all performed their original songs, well past 2 a.m. So much talent.
Homeward bound on MTA.Yes, that would be 4:40 a.m.

50,000 Smoking Hits!

Cool cats, on Jan. 3, we crossed the 50,000-hit mark on The Smoking Nun, since counting began Jan. 18, 2009. Thankee, thankee, thank you!

Monday, January 4, 2010

A New Year's Eve Tale: Up On The Roof

A New Year's Eve story... And you know what? It's my feeling that this doesn't need pictures. Just imagine... darkness!

I’ve yet to understand if I am supposed to attach some divine meaning... whether it’s a sign for the year ahead—or worse—the coming decade.

I just know I had no intention of spending the dawn of the new year locked outside on a rooftop on New York’s Upper West Side. Granted, it could have been much worse. First, it wasn’t particularly cold. It wasn’t raining. And most important, I wasn’t alone.

See, here’s how it all went down. Ayhan, Tinatin and I joined longtime, beloved friend Francie and hubby Nick at his aunt’s apartment on West End and 94th/NYC for this New Year’s Eve. We’re having a grand time by 10 p.m. We share some cocktails. It’s Francie’s birthday, too, so there is even higher cause for celebration.

Aunt Nancy serves delectable homemade chili. ABC’s “New Year’s Rockin’ Eve” quietly drones in the background, with robotic Ryan Seabreast reading his cues, as Jennifer Lopez, nearly naked in a spotted cat-suit, lip-syncs and fosters a fascinating group exchange: “She’s recording again? I like chocolate ice cream more than strawberry.” Francie and Nick’s two kids were even down for the night… It was cordial and engaging, conversation flowing… a gratifying, family feel for one of the first New York New Year’s Eves I’ve spent outside of a bar or at a raucous party. And I was perfectly content.

Around 11:40 p.m., Francie, Nick and I skipped up one flight of stairs to the rooftop. Eighth-floor, overlooking the glory of Manhattan on a damp, if not actively rainy evening. We chatted, enjoyed a smoke and turned around, with plenty of time to celebrate the New Year with our loved ones downstairs.

Nick turned to the steel door and grabbed hold of the latch. “Wait, is it locked?” Being that the door didn’t open, it was one of those moments where stating the obvious out loud made it sound a bit ugly. Ha, but that, of course, wasn’t going to stop us from getting in. The credit card trick! Nick gently swiped to release the lock. Francie and I giggled at our folly.

Hmm, the door didn’t give. It’s 11:50. “Oh, surely, they’re going to realize what’s going on downstairs, and they’ll be here any minute.” We chuckled… Just in case, I walked around the rooftop, checking the other doors… something about the elevator shaft, it said. Locked tight. Another that must lead us out… locked. 11:55 p.m.

“Shit, what if we…?” I’m not sure anyone said it out loud, but I pronounced, “Well, we’re not going to die up here or anything. Last year it was 7 degrees. The worst that could happen is…” Suddenly, we heard a collective cheer around us. Clanging. Horns honking. I glanced at my watch. “Happy New Year, guys! I love you.” We hugged, we laughed—actually, with a good deal of joviality—and realized that our friends down below didn’t give a flying fuck whether we lived or died. We had been deserted.

This was beginning to feel a tad ridiculous, so Francie, Nick and I walked to the edge of the rooftop to ask any passerbys to please call our “friends” and let them know that we were… trapped. It’s midnight, New Year’s. Want to guess how many people were actually on the street? We found three. We called down: “Hey, hey! Do you have a cell phone? We’re locked on the roof. Can you please make a call for us?” The party-goers below looked up… and waved. They waved. And kept walking. The streets otherwise: barren.

In the building across the street, at West End and 93rd, Francie noticed a man in his bedroom, watching TV. “Do you think we can get his attention?” She waved her arms. She may as well have been doing a Russian clog dance for a collective of Japanese tourists. It became apparent : This dude, who appeared to weigh in around 400 pounds, probably hadn’t left his bed in five years. The idea that he might dash to the window and come to our rescue faded as quickly as the nausea began to rise in our throats, as we theorized his likely years-long inactivity. Ew.

12:10 a.m. Okay, obviously our friends have forgotten that we exist. What to do? Again, I walked the expanse of the rooftop. On the outside of the building, there was a fire escape—which began at the seventh floor, one level below us. And honestly, even if there had been a way to climb down the outside of the building from roof level, well, I expect we’d still be there now, three days later. Heights +open spaces = certain death.

But there happened to be a fire escape on the interior side of the building, between the two taller columns of the structure. Get it? I am not a fan of heights. The Grand Canyon remains the most terrifying experience of my life, and looking down… down… down… you may as well have asked me to descend the ladder to hell. But gee, by golly, gosh, I took a look at poor Francie and Nick, and realized that someone here had to come to the rescue. (Okay, or maybe I just really needed a drink.)

“There’s a fire escape on the interior,” I offered. “Maybe if I head down floor by floor, I’ll see someone in a window who will call Ayhan or Tinatin or Nancy.” The notion of walking all the way from the eighth-floor roof to ground level… I refused to fathom. One step at a time, right? It snowed earlier that day, rained that evening and the iron stairs were potentially slick. My fashion-conscious New Year’s Eve shoes were not prepared for a superpower endeavor… so I crept down ever so slowly. Francie continually assured me each step of the way. “I’m here,” I would call with each landing. “Honey, are you okay? You okay?” she would call out. I could see her peering over the edge, offering persistent encouragement.

Downward to each floor, as I glanced into each window, and to my horror, it became obvious that each landing faced a bedroom. I imagined tapping ever so lightly, while tenants enjoyed a solitary New Year’s Eve, or worse, were celebrating in more amorous fashion. Neither option seemed particularly constructive to our cause. Fortunately(?), I didn’t see a soul…

12:15 a.m. Finally, I reached the bottom of the fire escape. My thighs ached from each cautious step. At one point, I jammed my shoe into a step and slightly sliced into my foot. But we were redeemed. Soon, we would rejoin our loved ones. Ha! We would all laugh out loud about our cute calamity. Hee! We would celebrate with champagne, after the fact, and wonder aloud if it was supposed to mean anything. Whee! I would write a blog entry about it, to share with the world. La, la!

Wait a minute. Where the fuck is the street? This is nothing but roof, in fact, MORE roof. I called up to Francie: “I made it. But where is the street? Where am I?” Nick voiced, “Oh, you’re on the second floor. You’re above the parking deck. You have to go down another level.”

Well, great. Just goddamn great. All I’m thinking is, I am not climbing back up those narrow slick fire escape stairs to that roof. No way. Not gonna happen. So the only way is down. I looked toward 95th Street and see what appears to be a downward stairwell. Steel door. Two bolt locks. The top is already disengaged. Sweet. I work with bare hands to twist the bottom lock open and find freedom. Nothing doing. It simply won’t give… Perhaps… yes! Sure enough, there is a parallel door on the opposite side, facing 94th. This time, both bolt locks were intact, but with a modicum of jiggering, the top clicked up and moved to the left. And then the bottom: Click, left.

As I pushed the steel door open, there was but a single staircase between myself and the sidewalk. Freedom, as if we’d escaped a POW camp. I strutted down, turned left toward West End, another left into the building, where the doorman cheerfully greeted, “How ya doin’?” I responded, “Just great.” I think I really meant it. Then entered the elevator and ascended to “7.”

Along the way to rescuing Nick and Francie from certain death—I felt a bit like a superhero at this point—on the way up one flight to the roof, I threw open the door of the apartment where we’d been celebrating New Year’s Eve 45 minutes earlier and barked, “Thanks a lot for coming to rescue us from the roof,” let the door slam, then climbed the stairs to redeem my friends from their, uh, heavenly purgatory.

Once we all returned to the apartment—get this—it turns out that Ayhan and Tinatin were PISSED OFF at us. As we triumphantly returned from our horrifying nightmare, possibly trapped forever on a wintry rooftop, we were greeted with disdain! Yes, I used an exclamation point! Two, now. For some curious reason, they resolved that we three decided it would be more fun to welcome the new year, the new decade, the rest of our lives and all, without them. Huh? Honestly, it never occurred to them that this wasn’t a choice?

Okay, so as the story then unfolded, including the peril of our daring fire escape-escape; the fact that obviously, none of us carried cell phones to the roof for a five-minute smoke, and the despair of nobody on the street acknowledging our quandary, and ultimately—I still kind of wonder why, but following our apologies—kisses were exchanged, champagne was poured… oh so what, a little late… and we proceeded into 2010 (or as I prefer… twenty-ten… cause that sounds macho) with dear friends and much love.

So what that I climbed down eight stories—oh, and my thighs still ache, but no, don’t pity me (you know, some is fine, but a lot would just embarrass me)—but as I’ve mandated for a good 20 years: Anything that turns into a decent anecdote was likely worth living. Indeed. And so there so have it.

My new year launched with a grand spirit of adventure. Unpredictability. The slightest hint of danger. A good hearty laugh. And best of all, one hell of a story. I say, I’m off to an ideal launch.

Charles' Christmas... A Handful O'Years Ago

Pardon my tardiness, but I just came across this... Christmas 1968, at grandmother Evelyn's house in Lynchburg, Va. That's me on the left, brother Chris on right, and mamer Evelyn behind. Hey, get it? My grandmother named her daughter after herself... my mother, who's about 5'9", was "Little Evelyn," while her mamer, about 5'2", was "Big Evelyn." I'd suggest it's a sou-ther-en thing, but I'm considering the Beales of Grey Gardens... Big Edie and Little Edie... they were Yankees. Pause... reflect...

Don't remember the moment here, but I certainly recall spending childhood Christmas afternoons at the grandparent's house... they had a silver aluminum Christmas tree. How fucking fabulous. Is it any wonder their grandson turned out to be a gay?

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Moody-fying

Today, I added another essential fashion element to my quest to become "Californication's" lead character Hank Moody, sans the obsession with kootycat... The shoes, baby! I bought his dark blue denim jeans a couple months ago (sorry, 1969 Gap for me; couldn't afford his $175 Earnest Sewn's Fulton britches). I think I'll be retiring some of my athletic sneaks in favor of a more muted/sophisticated/signature look for 2010. While Hank prefers a Timberland Torrance slip-on, my Sandro Moscoloni Men's Durango/Troy is close enough in step for me. These are the actual shoes I purchased, below.